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Villa Lagoon Tile
Mosaic Cement Tile

Traditional Mosaicos HidrĂ¡ulicos

 

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Installing Encaustic Cement Tiles

Installation Tips:

Thickness of VillaLagoon Tile is 5/8". Allow adequate room under doors, etc.

As these tiles are the work of artisans using natural pigments, slight variations in color from tile to tile are to be expected and are part of the natural appeal of this type of tile, as are its imperfect edges.

If laying tile on a concrete slab, be sure it is completely dry to prevent white effervesscence spots from showing up later on the surface of the tile as water evaporates.

Installing our cement tiles is a fairly simple process, but it must be done with care. You are creating a work of art and it is very important that if
there is a pattern to be followed that the planning and measuring has been done carefully.

The typical encaustic cement tile floor has a central "bordered carpet" surounded by solid colored tiles. The center of the room or the center of the central design elements must be located. Then the calculations are made to determine the number of tiles needed to create the desired pattern in
each direction. For an central rug-like design, measure the area to be tiled, and find the center of two opposite walls or sides. Use these points to snap a chalk line across the length of the area, in the center of the floor, dividing the room or area in half. Then snap another chalk line perpendicular to the first so the two lines cross in the center of the room. Check where the lines intersect with a carpenter's square to make absolutely sure the center point has a 90-degree angled quadrant. Start by laying a tile at the intersection of the lines, and then use the lines as a guide, as you work your way outward toward the walls in each quadrant.

Each cement tile is an individually hand made work of art and slight variations, such as in thickness, color shade, and slight imperfections like
irregular edges are inherent to this type of product. These characteristics add to the products natural appeal and do not compromise the performance of the tile. For this reason, it is important for an entire order to be placed at once as colors can vary slightly from batch to batch. You want all your tiles to have been made at the same time.

The surface on which you are installing the tile must be smooth and free from debris, grease, or wax.

For areas subject to moisture like showers, around pools, etc, the underlayment should be sealed with a waterproof membrane or other moisture-resistant product. Cement-fiber board makes an ideal underlayment for tile in wet locations. These boards are often referred to as cement board, wonderboard, duraroc, hardiboard,etc. The cement board is composed of cement and fiber that gives it its strength and resistance to moisture.

Proper installation of cement tiles requires a double spread of thinset adhesive. The thinset must be spread on the floor and also over the entire underside of the tile. This is often called 'buttering' the tile. Using spot dollops of thinset buttered on the back will cause the tiles to sit unevenly and later crack. Do not use a mallet of any kind. If you do, you will end up with cracks.

If possible, try to find an installer who has had some experience with traditional marble/cement tiles. Check with the older craftsmen in your area.

Tile rotation demo The tiles should be installed edge to edge (butt jointed) and laid on a perfectly leveled and clean surface. Most of our designs are intended to be turned 90 degrees each tile one is laid to form the pattern.

The tiles can be cut using a wet saw with a diamond blade.

When installing a pattern we recommend that you locate the center first, calculate how many tiles will be used as field tiles and where the border will start. Install from the center out and after the border is installed, lay solid field tiles until you fill the space.

Tiles can be installed with regular thinset mortar. Use a deeply-notched trowel to spread the adhesive on the surface as well as on the back of the tile in order to achieve adequate adhesion. You must 'butter' the entire back of the tile.

When using thinset mortar the back of the tile must first be dampened.

The tiles must be laid by hand and handled carefully to avoid damaging the edges. Once in place, level the tiles using your hands only. Using any type of mallet will damage the tiles' surface. Cement tiles should not be grinded down after they are installed, so it is very important that they are perfectly leveled during installation.

You can seal your tiles before laying them to act as a grout release. Be careful not over-saturate the tiles with sealer, since it may flow into the tile sides where thre grout need to make a good bond.

Any residue of mortar left on the surface of the tile must be cleaned immediately to avoid staining. After allowing the area to dry completely, clean any excess adhesive or spots, if any, with a #180 or #220 fine sand paper.

Do not step on the tiles until the mortar has dried.

Grouting Cement Tiles

The tiles should be prepared before grouting. It is essential to avoid the grouting product getting into any the small holes in the surface, or a veil of cement that is invisible while wet can be present and when dry, will mar the appearance of the tile's surface.

Traditionally a very narrow joint is used between the tiles. Recommendation is not more than 1.0 to 1.5 mm. You will usually want to use a very neutral color joint mix or similar to your tile colors. Traditionally, the color grout used for hydraulic cement floor tiles is white non-sanded grout, or white cement. Choose grout that is lighter than the lightest color in the tile pattern. Use a thin consistency grout, not a thick paste.

Dampen your tile floor well before you grout the tile.

The grout should be thin enough to completely fill the narrow joints.
Apply the grout with a rubber float or with a rubber squeegee, always moving diagonally across the joints.
Any excess grout should be removed with a damp cloth or sponge before it dries. Once the grout is cured and dry it should be sealed with a penetrating sealer. Read the grout manufacturer's instructions for further information.
Install your tile after any construction if at all possible.

Sealing of the floor tiles too soon after laying them will trap humidity and spots may appear later. Let the new tile floor dry out thouroughly. Humid tile will not absorp the sealant product properly.

The traditional final finish, which will give a beautiful sheen to the colors, is wax. Wax may be used often and if it is, wax can be polished for a very shiny appearance. Once the tile has been installed, sealed, grouted, and sealed, you may decide to wax it to give it a luster patina and further protect the tile. If you decide to wax the floor, use a clear liquid wax, and follow the wax manufacturer's instructions. You may need a buffer to acquire the desired finish. For routine cleaning of encaustic mosaic cement floor tile use a mild cleanser, water, and mop as needed. Never use abrasive cleaners, acid cleaners, or bleaches because they will eventually eat away the natural color pigments of the surface.

Sealing the Tiles

Once the surface is completely clean, seal the tile and grout with a penetrating sealer. After the tiles have completely dried apply a penetrating sealer using a sponge. Always follow the instruction of the sealer's manufacturer. FILA manufactures a full line of sealers and cleaners for cement tiles and is sold in Europe and the USA. See www.Filachim.com . See http://www.greatlakestile.com for online ordering of Fila Italian products. FilaFob will maintain the tiles natural colors. Another product, sold in the US, is Miracle Sealant Porus Plus.

Some sealers will enhance or darken the color of the tiles. Test the sealer in a small portion before applying. Look also for Miracle Sealant's Porous Plus. Available online. Not cheap but you will just be doing it once.

Cement Tile Floor Care

After installation has been completed and the grout has dried thoroughly wash the tiles with mild soap avoid all acid or alkaline products. As with natural stone, cement tiles are porous in nature and should be sealed to avoid staining.

Cement tiles should be regularly mopped with clean water. A capful of liquid wax may be added to the water to improve the tile's natural sheen. Never use acids to clean the encaustic cement tiles as it will cause damage.

Polished Concrete Tiles

There is a professional polishing process that can give you a very high gloss. This process uses special equipment. Check your local yellow pages for marble or concrete polishing professionals if you desire a very high gloss finish. This highly reflective finish is created by a grinding process that uses progressively finer particle size just like polishing a fine stone. You may have difficulty finding someone to do this on a residential scale, many are commercial only (think large expanses like Sam's Club floor).

Sand Bed Alternate Method:

Occasionally people ask about the very old-time method of laying cement tile on a packed sand under layer. It is because of this method that many
antique tiles have been salvaged in very good shape. Once you get the first tile out, you can pop up the others by digging into the packed sand
beneath.

We have no first hand experience with this method, but give info here just as a help to people doing research or restoring an old home. Some people with cement tile that they call Cuban Tile in Florida have tiles installed this way.

This traditional method calls for laying tile in a bed of thick mortar on stabilized sand or substrate. This method is seldom used today and has
several drawbacks and requires that a few additional precautions are taken.
One thing is the immersion of the tiles in water for at least 4 hours before laying. Then it is imperative not to use a mallet which would crack the tiles.
The possibility of efflorescence (white-grey crystals of salts) appearing after the tiles are laid. Eventually these may disappear, but only after
frequent washing.
There is a long period of drying-out required before being able to seal your tile floor with wax.
For this method there is a need for tiles to be laid by an experienced professional tile layer familiar with this technique.

 

 

 

 

 

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